A pease of filament broke right after the filament buffer of my AMS. Here is a youtube clip from Bambu Lab how te release it:
https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/troubleshooting/broken-filament-anywhere
Category: 3D Printing
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Nice list of 3d related websites.
Found this list on a facebook page. Removed the deadlinks and
Lithos
3dp.rocks
itslitho.com
lithophanemaker.comCAD software
cookiecad.comObjects
3dcadbrowser.com
3dcontentcentral.com/
3dexport.com
3dkitbash.com
nih.gov – 3d
cgtrader.com
cults3d.com
crealitycloud.com
wixsite.com – dtrstudio3d
fab365.net
free3D.com/
free3D.io/
zortrax.com – library
nasa.gov – nasa3d.arc
nikkoindustries.com
pinshape.com
Printables
repables.com
sketchfab.com
spriters-resource.com – models
redpah.com
Threeding.com/
thingiverse.com/
Tinkercad.com
Treatstock.com
turbosquid.com
yeggi.com
YouMagine.comIndexer
stlfinder.com
three-drop.com -
3D info post
I’ve bought a 3D printer a couple of years ago. Although i’ve read a lot pages and info, i forget a lot of info. That’s not because of the information, but sometimes that’s how my brain works. Here I note al the info, a short explanation (2 lines max) and maybe a link to the article.
This document will never be complete, and maybe the explanation will also not 100% correct, but maybe it can help you, I know it will help me.
3D Printing type
- FFF/FDM – Fused filament fabrication/Fused deposition modeling. Is the process of laying down a plastic material. WIKI
- DLP – Digital Light Processing. A resin solution is hardened by using a projector. The object needs a couple of post processing steps. The detail is higher then FFF/FDM. WIKI
- SLA – Stereolithography. It’s comparable with DLP, only SLA uses a laser instead of projector. WIKI
3D Printing Material
- ABS – Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene. It’s a petrolium based filament. It’s melting temeparture is between around 220-250C, but lower is also possible. WIKI
- PLA – Polylactic acid. It’s biologic degradable and the melting point is between 170-230C. Downside is that when you print something, it can degrade in a hot car. WIKI
3D Printing techniques
- Support – Support is a technique where you start printing a column for a part of the print that otherwise would float in midair. WEB
A 3D print of a brain with supports.
3D Printing software (Slicer)
Slicers convert a 3d object to a printable object. A slicer also adds settings for the 3D printer, like temperature bed temperature, layer height.
- Slic3r – One of the first slicers. Although the website is still available and you can download the software, the last update is from 2018-05-10. WEB
- Prusaslicer – Prucaslicer is a so called fork from Slic3r (the name is still in the application), created by Joseph Pruca for it’s Pruca printers. Although created for it’s own printers, you can use it for every printer. WEB
3D objects portals
- MakerWorld – Mainly for Bambu Labs printers, but (as they call it) raw models are also downloadable. WEB
- Printables – Made by Prusa, but only source files, so you can slice them and then print them. WEB
- My Mini Factory – A large site with a lot of STLs. WEB
- Thangs – A pretty large collection of 3d objects. WEB
3D Indexers
3D printing techniques
Youtube – Makers Muse
- Best way to make support layers. WEB
3D Benchmarks
- 3DBenchy – The standard first print to check if your print is working. It has some tests to check if your 3d printer is aligned correctly. WEB
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3d printer
A while back (i think at least 1.5 years ago) i bought a second hand printer. It was an upgraded Anet AM8. Although i wanted one for a while, i just was hesitant to start using it. Thought i needed some kind of checklist for the first time to run it, just to make sure i did everything OK. And guess what, there isn’t any. Last Tuesday we had a national Holiday (kings-day) and i just thought: Just start the damn thing!
Created a test cube using Prusiaslicer, imported in pronterface and started printing. The base layer was OK, but after a wile is saw that there were no additional layers added. After checking if there was any filament was extruded i saw nothing. I also didn’t see any hole any more, don’t really know what happend. I tink the bed and nozzle hit each other, but my knowledge is yet big enough.
Ordered a couple of new nozzles and they came in today. I wanted to change the nozzle so i lifted the z axis, and noticed that the right lead screw jammed a lot in the first 5 cm’s. First thought it would be de lead screw itself, so released it and turned it upside down and tried again, same issue. Then released the tension on all the screws of the coupler and fastened them again, still the same issue. In a way i had the idea that the stepper motor and the nut that attaches to the horizontal bracket weren’t aligned. So removed 3 screws that held the stepper motor in place and released the 4th one so the stepper motor could rotate and set itself. Moved the horizontal bracket 10 cm up and down, no problem. Moved the bracket 10 cm up, attached one screw to set the stepper motor more stable in it’s place. Moved the horizontal bar down and up again, no problem, new screw, and then again. Everything goes like a dream again.
Because i was afraid there would be filament stuck in the heatsink. Attached the new nozzle and cranked up the temp to 285C, so i could push filament through the hot end….. At 80C the printer stopped functioning with a temp warning that i had te reset the device. Tried everything, checked all cables, until i found the page of Hobby Hoarder, where he explained how the hot end, heat break and nozzle should be attached. Apparently somehow i screwed the hot end and heat break against each other. And the heat break is made of aluminium, and so it cools the hot end very fast. After attaching the parts correctly the increase of temperature was very fast and it hit 285 without problems.
So what I’ve learned today:
- Make sure you align the stepper motor, coupler, lead screw and nut!
- Assemble your hot end correctly.
Up to the next learning part.
